T-BAR FXLRS Handlebars Installation
Low Rider S is a ready Harley-Davidson clubstyle. One of its main style features is T-Bar handlebars, which allow active steering during extreme riding. All stunt Harley-Davidson motorbikes have T-Bar handlebars.
When selecting a T-Bar handlebar, keep in mind that the higher the handlebar, the closer it is to the rider's chest. The T-Bar is not suitable for very tall riders, so they should choose handlebars with a forward bent. Such handlebars allow the rider not to bend elbows too much.
We chose the LA Choppers Kage Fighter - a classic solid T-Bar. It's comfortable, it has internal wiring and is made of stainless steel which perfectly matches the color of the motorcycle and the S&S Superstreet 2-1 exhaust system, which we've already installed in a separate video.
The handlebar has multiple riser heights at 10"/12"/14", with a pullback or without. We chose a 12-inch handlebar without a pullback, which is an excellent option for a 180 cm tall rider.
For a Low Rider, the height of 10 inches without a pullback or 14 inches with a pullback seem unsuitable, as the rider has to lean forward or bend elbows.
The Kage Fighter disadvantage is that inner holes for wiring of the right hand control and electronic throttle aren't large enough. In the video, we laid the wires in the original braids, but it was complicated. Replacing the thick throttle braid with a thin heat shrink will make it easier and won't affect the quality.
Standard rubber damper bushings in the upper triple clamp are too soft for high handlebars, and even the original handlebar pushed them hard. The bushings need to be replaced with polyurethane or fully metal ones - vibrations on new Softail models are small, despite the engine tight mounting.
We had a problem with the right brake master cylinder, which rested on the joint/transition to a larger pipe diameter, so we had to modify the body.
Extending wires is best done with couplings. When using ready-made sections with connectors, the connectors can end up in the visible part, in the bend or at the entrance to the rubber gasket. In this case, it will be difficult to place bulky connectors.
It is easiest to extend the clutch cable by replacing only the upper part, because to disconnect the cable in the gearbox, you need to unscrew the cover and remove the exhaust system on some models.
We couldn't find the upper part of the cable separately, but only as part of a kit with wires and a brake hose. The hose didn't fit, so we made a hose from HEL components. The fitting angles and the hose length are crucial on Low Rider S because of the massive lower triple clamp. It's very close to the frame when the handlebar is turned right to the maximum. Since the kits are not made for a specific handlebar model, the hose might not fit perfectly. Such a problem should not appear on models with a classic fork and compact triple clamps.
In our store, you can get any help and purchase/install any parts from the leading world brands. We work with LA Choopers, Biltwell, Drag Specialties, LSL, TRW, Todds Cycle, Fat Baggers, Viking Handlebars, Trask, Arlen Ness, Klock Werks, Khrom Werks, Roland Sands, Performance Machine, Burly Brand.