Inspecting a Used Motorcycle

Prices of new motorcycles are sky-high. Not everyone is willing to pay that much for an economy-class Japanese motorcycle. Buying a used motorcycle is the most sensible option for an ordinary rider. The used market is actively developing, so you can easily find a motorcycle bought new from a dealer. That is the best option, because it has a service book (a guarantee of real mileage) and was ridden 3 months a year or even less.

Buying a motorcycle from America or Japan through an intermediary is like importing a car from Europe: you can, but it's better to buy one sold by a local dealer. As a rule, it's a pig in a poke with a rolled-back odometer, often after full disassembly (many bikes are shipped disassembled) and from places where motorcycles are ridden all year round. Ads saying «no mileage in Russia» sound strange now; better no mileage in America and Japan. Sellers often write: «the bike was brought from the USA, I'm the first owner». Such claims are just as strange, because in reality the motorcycle may have had many owners in the USA, and Americans don't blow the dust off their motorcycles the way people do here. Americans treat Japanese motorcycles as cheap toys or workhorses, so it's better to count the American owners too.

When inspecting a used motorcycle, you most likely won't be able to test it on the move. Most motorcycle dealerships don't offer test rides, and private owners fear theft. Nobody will let you remove covers and components for a detailed inspection either, so you have to judge the bike's condition by its appearance.

Engine

If the overall look of the motorcycle suits you, inspect the engine first. The task is to find out whether the engine has been disassembled.

• If there are chewed-up bolts, they have been unscrewed. Pay special attention to the engine mounting bolts.

• If there is sealant in the joints, the parts have been removed.

• Replaced or scuffed side covers aren't critical, since they suffer even in light crashes and are often replaced.

• A removed oil pan, cylinder head or the engine itself is a reason to stop the inspection, since it's unknown what was repaired and who repaired it. The very fact that you noticed the disassembly shows that the engine was taken apart by amateurs. An engine repair can be very expensive, and buying a used replacement engine carries the same risks.

From our team's experience we can give a few figures (we have used new motorcycles in the city and over long distances). On a 2005 R6, nothing was removed from the engine in 45,000 km, not even the clutch. Likewise on a VFR800i over 35,000 km.

So unless there is a manufacturing defect, there can be no reason to remove the engine or its parts within 30,000–35,000 km. If the engine looks OK from the outside, start it from cold and check that the cylinders are working. To do this, touch the exhaust pipes with a rag: you will immediately feel if one is colder than the others, which means that cylinder isn't working. When the engine warms up, wait for the fan to come on and rev it to the limiter: you will hear any strange noises right away! If there is an oil level sight glass, check it for foam. If the gasket is damaged, coolant gets into the oil, and you can see this in the sight glass as an uneven emulsion or too high a level. Hold a rag to the exhaust pipe: if oil settles on the rag, it indicates critical engine wear.

Wheels

Check the wheels for buckling, runout and play. To do this, lift the wheel off the ground and spin it.

• If there are irregularities and bumps on the rim, these are welds, so the rim has been repaired.

• Inspect the rim for scratches, dents and repairs. If there are scratches and gouges, the motorcycle has been dropped, which means the brake disc could have bent. You can check this by rolling the motorcycle a few meters while braking evenly. If the disc is bent, the brake lever will pulse.

New wheels are very expensive and can't be repaired. Any repair involves heating the rim, as a result of which the alloy loses much of its strength and bends with a light impact.

Suspension

• Inspect the lower triple clamp. If the steering stops are bent or broken, there was a hard crash, after which the lower triple clamp may be deformed. In this case the handlebar will be turned slightly to one side when riding straight.

• Inspect the fork tube surface for scratches and rust. The surface should be perfect, otherwise the seals will constantly leak. If the tube is covered in oil, the seals need replacing.

• Check the steering head for play. To do this, lock the front brake and rock the motorcycle back and forth. If there is play, you will feel a pulsation under the top triple clamp.

Frame and related parts

• Inspect the frame for dents, welds and cracks. As a rule, the frame is very well hidden and protected by the handlebar, engine covers and fairings, and if it is damaged, there was a serious crash.

• Inspect the rear part of the frame: step a couple of meters back from the motorcycle and make sure the tail isn't skewed.

• The front subframe (the fairing bracket) is a very fragile part that may not survive even a light crash.

• Bent radiator lugs also indicate a crash.

• A steel fuel tank may be rusty. Check this by shining a flashlight inside.

Electrics

• Check all the buttons, make sure all the signals work and there are no errors on the dashboard. If there are non-standard LED bulbs, make sure they work correctly.

• Remove the seats to assess the condition of the subframe and wiring. There should be no twisted wire joints. Many people splice in an alarm and xenon lights, but such «tuning» is more a reason to haggle than to raise the price.

• Check that the switch blocks don't rotate on the handlebar. Crashes often break their locating pins, and the switch block may rotate when pressed hard.

• If the motorcycle has an immobilizer, find out how many keys there are and whether there is a service key that can be used to program new keys. If there is only one key, losing it will cost you a very large sum.

Styling

Fitting accessories is an individual matter. Dubious «tuning» is very often installed: xenon lights, self-assembled braided brake hoses, angel eyes, spliced-in alarms, faux leather seat covers and so on. Such «tuning» is a reason to haggle.

Steering dampers have a service life of 4–6 years. Over time the oil in the damper wears out, and it stops providing resistance even at the maximum setting. So the damper will have to be rebuilt and the oil changed.

Rubber brake hoses have a service life of 4–6 years. Outwardly they may look fine, but the rubber structure is already compromised, so the brake fluid turns black immediately. A replacement set of braided brake hoses isn't cheap.

Straight-through mufflers need their packing replaced every 20,000 km. If the owner doesn't know when it was last replaced, you may face a repair.

Figures for roughly estimating mileage

• Noticeable wear (a clearly palpable lip at the edge) on the front brake discs appears by 40,000–50,000 km.

• A stock set of sprockets and chain lasts about 30,000 km.

Check the consumables: tires, pads, chain and sprockets. Replacing them can be costly.

After inspecting all this, you can start carefully examining the motorcycle's appearance, looking for scratches, scuffs and chips: you have to find a reason to haggle! Finally, don't forget to look at the documents and check the frame number.

Sometimes owners sell riding gear along with the motorcycle. It's important to understand that any used helmet will protect worse than any new certified helmet. This is because the energy-absorbing liner under the shell compresses over time and takes the shape of the owner's skull. So on another head the helmet won't fit over its whole area, and pressure points will form. Don't buy a used helmet, even if it's offered at a good price!

We offer used motorcycle inspection services. We travel around Moscow and the south of the Moscow region.